Freitag, 22. Mai 2015
Mittwoch, 6. Mai 2015
Dienstag, 31. März 2015
Coffee & tea plantations at large, a literal church replacement, pineapple, cashew, guava & passionfruit farming were to be seen & tasted along the way. weddings were taking place in several villages as it was sunday & were well attemded by the villagers. bathing with some of the local kids was great fun, watching the locals spreading out magnok chips for sundrying in hmong villages & 2 road accident with min. One person dead were the days main events before spending the night at quang scn. The landscape on the central highlands was great & more than made up for the bumpy roads.
the day after was again good fun, consisted of passing by More plantations, mostly coffee, cashews, some bananas that were situated close to the way we took. Waterfalls, then more rice paddies, old IFA trucks still in use on rough roads, river crossing by a hand-towed boat, then followed by trying to find our way to the next bigger road through the rice fields.
Hotel was almost on the waterfront of lak lake as was found out next morning. There the fishermen were going on about their business, rice paddies were being looked after, a funeral held along the main road. We stopped at a hmong village, which had been resettled there by the governement, providing free schooling, healthcare etc in exchange for the villagers giving up their nomad lifestye of burning, farming & moving on. The ride continued through mountainous scenery with lots of coffee plantations, as well as cashews, later sugar cane and other crops. The road was great for the places we passed, one hmong & an even bigger dao wedding, a collapsed bridge replaced by a hanging bridge on top, the amazingly sweet smell of blooming coffee trees. In the afternoon the coast was in sight, lots of red flags with yellow stars & fishermen heading out for work in tiny vessels. Nha trang itself seems quite touristy, signs in kyrillic language & announcements for keeping the beach clean in english, a gondola connecting town to one of the islands in the distance. Another nightbus ride to hoi an, feels almost like sleeping on a couch.
Montag, 30. März 2015
we were taking a ferry across mekong river as the new bridge wasn't yet opened, at the border into vietnam for the first time the luggage got checked. Coming into ho chi minh city took over an hour, the towns size & general traffic, specially the amount of motorcicles, was impressive as well as the greenery. Being dropped off at the backpacker district steve & I quickly found a nice place with a local family in a quiet alley & went for a walk to notre dame, a temple, saigon river & downtown; everywhere the parks & greenery was being looked after intensively, maybe in preparation for the upcoming 40th anniversary of the victory. After some searching the myanmar consulate was found the next morning (visa application will require some preparation) & visited the markets of chinatown, before we teamed up again & with the other two later that night. Their missing moped was purchased the next morning, so our ways parted. Following an extensive walk (first rain for me in vietnam) a nightbus took me to dalat.
The morning was surprisingly chilly & with sunrise went to town to check for a canyoning tour & had a great day out hiking, climbing, floating & abseiling in a nearby valley with loads of other people & good guides. In a hostel there was great company & the idea of taking a easy rider tour for the next few days came.
The following morning Bom was advicing the tour & shortly after we hit the road. Passing extensive agricultural areas (eg strawberries, artichokes, flowers) we passed through great sceneries of the hilly landscapes, stopped for weasel coffee (coffee fed to weasels/ferrets before being grinded to the actual product - a bit smoother, less bitter) in some of the very extensive coffee plantation area, but also went along rice paddies (in Vietnam from 2 up to 4 harvests a year) & tea plantations, to see the elephant waterfall, got into rain on the last few kilometers before reaching bao loc.
Vietnam #: 01653973185
Dienstag, 24. März 2015
Dienstag, 17. März 2015
Montag, 16. März 2015
The busride to luang prabang seemed fairly long, but maybe just due to the fact that the minibus carried more passengers than it should have. Again going slowly on partially bumpy roads, through green & hilly landscapes, passing mostly small villages along the way. Upon arrival in town a hostel was quickly found just in time to watch the sun set from the banks of the mekong river. Had a pleasant evening walk around theBeautiful towncentre on Peninsula with its Colourful nightmarket (mostly textiles/fabrics, great choice of food & lao coffee). Drugs seemed to be offered at every corner, where the lights werent strong...
went to watch Sunrise from the temple on hill in the middle of luang prabang & afterwards on to Rent a bike to go to tad se, a cascading waterfall literally through the forrest, in the rainy season that is. to get a bit of this feeling I went for a rivercrossing. Back in luang prabang it was time for a visit to the local phosy market, closeby an atm spontaneously kept the creditcard, yet everything was solved within a matter of minutes. Museum on the local ethnicities was closed as it was yyet another monday. During an evening walk it was obvious the day hadnt gone great for the streetfood vendors as there were heaps of Leftovers, later to be thrown away. It seemed a bit odd, on one side obese vendors & hours later people eating out of plastic bags found on the streets. Meanwhile a visit to a broadband internet cafe proved yet again to be very different perception of broadband...
on a Crowded bus through mountainous landscape, the journey went on towards phonsavanh. Along the way through Small villages the locals wealth visible no longer on SUVs but on material for construction of houses (rattan vs concrete), stopping many times to refill cooling water for brakes of hyundai bus. Many times garbage & plastic bags filled with vomit were thrown out of its windows. At the accommodation for the night, my fellow travellers & I were first presented the facilities, then the opium grown directly at the front door. Later went for a Market visit at phongsavanh.
next morning we Rent 2 motorcycle for 4 people, heading for the plain of jars, where ancient carved stones in the form of big jars were supposedly used for burials. On the unpaved roads it didnt take long to have a flat tire, but everytime help was only a short distance away. Aparts from the threedifferent archeological sites we drove to a dry waterfall & on the way back went to watch an old soviet tank. back to phonsavanh for watching the documentaries at MAG, an organisation that helps the locals in professionally clearing villages & farmlands from unexploded ordnance. (UXO).
over what first seemed decent, paved road yet halfway turned into bumpy dust road it was the following day on the bus to paksan. Nice mountainous scenery as we came down from the plain it got much warmer, dry rice paddies abound & saw an MAG team at work in one of the many villages., the bus was used by the passengers for shopping on the road & transportation of all sorts, incl. Live chicken, seemingly having endless capacities as it was following the windy path with a few washouts. in pakxan the bus transfer worked well & soon reappeared the mekong, bigger than ever,tree & corn farming plus else on its banks.
Close to takhek is a large karst area & one of the countries biggest hydropower stations, which can be visited following a route called the loop. For the next 3 days I was following this route through the beautiful scenery, visiting a number of caves of which a few are actually used as temples, passing odd areas of now flooded lands where dead trees are sticking out of the water, hiking through an insect-noisy forrest to a tall waterfall, seeing tabacco farms before heading to one of the biggest caves in the area & crossing it by boat & afoot.
On it was to savannakhet where everything of interesting seemed closed as it was monday, including tourist office & Dinosaur museum, however found a place with excellent vegetarian tofu dishes & best maracuja shake
At the late arrival in pakxe all hostels seemed either closed already or full. After quite some time searching Found a dorm with phone, a friendly host & tourguide.
closeby to town is yet another greater are that can be seen on a Loop, the bolavan Plateau, where tea & coffee is grown, the latter being filtered, served in espresso like quantity but of almost sirup consistence. The banana harvest seemed to be done with as there were many burns ongoing, often the root of a plant called mann, used for food & animals, was left in slices to dry in the sun on the roadsides.
returning to pakxe I Was asked for my advice in regards to marketing for the hostel (proud).
from there by bus & makeshift ferry to champassak to visit the 6th century khmer remains of vat phou in the heat of the day.
After a longer ride arrived in nakasang where the mekong is very wide & exist si phon don, the 4000 islands. took a boat at sunset on to don det & went cycling don khon in search for a place to stay.
To get to know the island I went cycling around don khon, got to see waterfalls, more dry rice paddies, crossed a collapsed bridge, learned that french had to build a railway system on these tiny islands when due to tensions with siam steam boats had to be transported past the (during dry season impassable ) waterfalls & rapids - by trains (back then the laotian road didn't exist).
what followed was a fun day of kayaking around the 4000 islands on the Mekong, where we paddled to waterfalls, some minor rapids & got to see a few river dolphin, watching from a distance.
Then a day of rest before setting off for cambodia.
Sonntag, 1. März 2015
From phongsaly to hat sa is a bumpy & dusty road. Close to the start is a quarry, from Which chinese trucks take the stones Into the valley to yet another construction site. The bus transport happens along the very same road & due to the dust can be difficult to see the magnificent view into the cloud covered valley with few tree-covered islands standing out above the clouds. Going at 20km/h, the bus slowly winds its way down, all along cheerful lao music playing.
In hat sa the nam ou river is passing by & tickets are readily available at this season. The boat driver is called in & off it goes through the steep valley, few rapids & through a vegetation ranging from deep forrests to corn & banana plantations along the riversides, goat, pork & buffaloes roaming around freely, kids & adults fishing. After about 2.5 hrs the dam uder construction apears & its time to change ride, cross the river & after about 45 mins re-embark a similar boat. The dam is just one amongst several along the nam ou, apparently all cconstructed by the northern neighbor, just as well as roads & bridges. The day ends at muang khua, a quiet town along the road from oudomxai to vien bien phu in vietnam, but drawing in a number of tourists for going on trekking tours to nearby akha villages. On the riverbanks the locals grow amongst other things grapefruit, corn, tamarind, papaya, Salads, etc. we end the day on a few glasses of lao-lao.
It seems all falang (westerner tourists) have decided to leave all at once in the morning, quickly 2 boats are filled & spontaneously the days destination will be muang ngoi, as the car seats for this destination seem more comfortable than wooden planks. the passengers by now know mostly each other from previous experiences, the trip is similar to the previous day (valley less steep except for the karst landscape towards the end, again a few, fantastic king fisher birds can be seen too) & after less than 4 hrs the fairly touristy desstination is reached. As one is leaving the boat offers for guesthouses are approaching, everything is prepared for the tired traveller. A walk through town reveals that the place can be reached by land for quite some time; scooters have arrived, small trucks are used for overland transportation & a massive telephone pole has been put in place. still, surrounded by tree covered mountains, nam ou flowing by nothing much seems to disturb the peace. Following the road out of town one can quickly witness slash and burn in progress to make way for more banana / rice plantations, however. For a really nice view over the town & river one can climb a closeby hill, with two extensive caves along the way (encounters with huge centipedes included). the place i stayed at (mainstreet crossing) is run by a swedish expat, who puts on really good & well visited buffets for dinner & breakfast, also has bicycles to rent.
Weighing the options of visiting more caves on a bike tour along the road from town or continuing further down river I boarded one of the many boats the following morning. Through even higher karst landscapes & a few more rapids the cruise went on to nong kiao, where some time was spend on the bridge crossing the river - drying clothes as the backpack had been stored at the lowest part of the boat...by mini bus on to luang prabang.
Donnerstag, 26. Februar 2015
As a group of 5 plus guide & 2 assistants we set out in the late Morning by tuktuk to go on a 2 day hike with camping in the forrest. As soon as the hike began, it became obvious that the group was wanting to go quicker than the guides, who took a lot of stops in short intervals. At each they would explain For moment a little about herbs & fauna, then rest. This way we got to learn about herbs/roots against stomach ache, a tree whose juice smells like bathroom refreshers, how to set up path markers & what they mean. Some of the food was carried along, so we had a delicious lunch by waterfall (chicken, soy sauce with chillies, sticky rice, vegetables & small, aromatic bananas). In the afternoon the hike passed through parts of the nam ha national biodiversity reserve that were used for growing opium years back & now are taken back by nature. In general opium is still grown, but not so widely consumed these days, a bigger issue seems java, a meth like synthetic drug. Since one of the groups members had been in the same area 25 years ago, he could confirm that many changes had taken place for the better living conditions of the people, mostly at the cost of nature. Not just in that region but also elsewhere large areas of woodland had to give way to rice-paddies, sugar cane agriculture & gum trees. As now is the dry season the extend of those decidious forrests is obvious. Later in the afternoon the camp was found, cleaned & the shelters refurbished with fresh banana leaves & soon the preparations for dinner began (rice prepared in bamboo, fish, banana flower with pork, soy chips, vegetables & lao-lao of course, the selfmade "whiskey"). the assistants from the akha tribe were also demonstrating how to create patterns, build baskets etc from bamboo & rattan. The morning after we set off to their village & passed by the "newly" claimed lands as well as see areas which were just "prepared" for utilization, mostly growing gum/rubber trees on the slopes of the hills, where old & young would work (weeding or planting, hunting with selfmade rifles,...). some former village had been outgrown, thus the field lay unused as the settlement had moved on to a different location.
Upon arrival we saw the usual picture of a rural village, mostly wooden houses with open storage on ground floor & living area on first, traditionally covered with plants, these days more likely with metal/asbestos sheets, loads of kids in the streets, satellite dishes on every other house, lifestock & garbage in the streets. At one of the assistants place a fantastic lunch was prepared, incl. Smoked eggplant.thereafter we set off for the mainroad & transportation back to muang sing. In town it the new years celebration of 5 hilltribes was still ongoing at the local temple, yet by the time we got there most participants had enjoyed their fair share of food & beer lao. By sunset all remaining activities, e.g. group dancing, rope pulling etc, would be over & the tribes would head back to the villages on scooters.
The next day the busride to oudomxai via luang namtha took several hours each & it was impossible to make the connection for phongsaly the same day (another 8hrs). Not much to see except chinese influence everywhere from signposts, chinese-Laotian coorporations & posh buildings along the mainroad. to phongsaly there is for now only a 1-2 lane road, frequented by old busses, scooters, chinese trucks fully loaded with sugar cane etc. The road winds up & down many hills, passes through poor settlements & towns, growing fast depending on the ressources available (large fields of peas/beans, rice paddies, herb gardens). Along the road it is not uncommon to pass over hills entirely covered by what might still be native forrest, just to turn a corner & see reclaiming of lands in process or an equal area covered with a banana plantation. Phongsaly itself is located beautifully on the back of a mountain & from the local temple one can look far. Since there was a large wedding happening it was a bit difficult to find a place at first. In the evening a few other travellers & I went to eat chinese, which was very good indeed.
The next morning the tourist office said no tours could be booked for the day, so an appointment was made for the afternoon to find more people interested in doing trekking. Meanwhile roommate thiery & I set off to see the nearby tea plantation (apparently the tradition of growing tea here goes back some 400 years - in our hotel some was given to us & not so tasty, but maybe we're just lacking the knowhow of proper preparation of same), found a bakery with tiny baguettes & went to visit the newly build village nearby. There is construction in progress of a new dam & thus a village had to be relocated. Upon returning to the tourist information it was said their guides / the ones for the trek we were interested in had to do surveying over the next few days, so weren't available. The prospect of taking a different tour quickly lowered the number of participants resp. Didnt make much sense as it would be just a walk out of town.
Not far from town is a place called komaen, in which the locals say tea has been grown since the early days of the settlement, around 400 years ago. For reasons unknown the tea plants weren't cut / trimmed for sometime, so that nowadays there are some tea trees (up to small fruit tree size), making harvest more difficult as the locals will have to climb up in them to pick the fresh leaves. At the moment just general upkeep of the plantation & houses is happening as it is dry season. In collaboration with the german development program "giz" a pavilion with info about the history & impact of the plantations on the villagers daily lives has been set up & is actually well done. All around this part of the country the efforts undertaken in order to improve the living conditions of the lao people are visible, e.g. information boards about food hygiene & disease identification /prevention by unicef & the swiss, promotion of accommodation facilities by new zealand, support in relatively small, more general projects by EU or germany. The largest contributions or at least the ones with the highest immediate impact for the locals are however the chinese ones, be it infrastructure, electrification, natural ressources or anti-drug campaigns. after visiting the plantations & catching a good share of sun walking there & back, its time to leave Phongsaly by boat starting tomorrow.
The 2nd day as full day in bangkok was spend looking for a new place to stay as the old one was overpriced for its conditions. Once the luggage was safely stored away, the trainticket for going north had to be collected. Loosing ones orientation can happen quickly & finding addresses sometimes turns out to be complicated. Finding the office by streetname took me 2h+ while google knew surprisingly well where to go (once it is fed correctly). in short some street names arent written in english & some locals speak English as well as I do thai. Being in the downtown area the large, well looked-after lumpini park & skywalk (walkway above the busy roads) werent far. The compulsory visit to mbk mall then took only 1.5h (its a big mall full of medium to tiny shops, stretching over min 5 floors). From there to one of the small channels in town its not far & longboat rides with collapsible roof for the low height of some bridges are fun. Leaving around golden hill monument I got talked into going for a tuk tuk ride with very special conditions (20 baht because today is tourist day...ok, for you only 10 baht...). so in the end it went to the 45m (rather feet) buddha statue of a temple, then to 2 tourist offices (at which the driver will collect his fuel vouchers) & on to the marble temple (wat benchamorphit, made from italian marble, possibly carrara). What wasnt mentioned is that the temple was about to close, and when I hopped the fence the tuktuk had disappeared. I passed throne hall, took a bus back & tried pad thai (a fried noodle dish, with sprouts, egg,..) & moved to sanam lang. Night had begun already & many locals made use of the large green area in various ways, eg. Singing friends letting kites rise high above or many cyclists going around the park on a speedtrack. Reaching the river ferries had closed for the night & following the roads there was what first seemed like a vegetable market, but soon turned out to have all the usual products. Particularly on offer where heart shaped balloons & flowers as valentines was coming up. Passing again through Chinatown I called it a day & went for beer on the hostels roof... from the close si phraya boat terminal it was to tha tien on the large river & for a visit at the temple of the dawn (wat arun), which was impressive for its decorations inside the temple (many wallpaintings & statues) & the fun in climbing the little monument with hundreds of other tourists in the midday sun. Since the lying buddha of wat po was just on the other side of the river, I followed the herd. the temple itself is quite a beauty for its architecture, yet for the many buddhas in every corner I quickly got tired of the cultural part & took the boat towards the khao san road area. Its a very busy market road with plenty of hostels close by & more foreigners than thais for those reasons. After a short stroll it was back to the hostel by boat & on to the station to catch the night train. The train was clean, spacious seats that lateron are converted into a bed by the personnel & with everything provided (breakfast can be booked too). as it was already nighttime nothing much to see leaving bangkok. In the morning mist appeared farmland, apparently for growing rice crops, salads & maybe corn, some cow farming & few Forrest, with trees appearing much younger than those seen in bangkoks temples & streets. Udon thani is famous mostly for its airbase/port, kept a clean city with little to see, it seemed. Thus I decided to move on by bus to lom sak. Turns out there are typically min 2 bus stations in town, one in the center the other further out for the long-distance connections. Telling the destination a ticket was quickly issued ( & a remark made). a lady said something about 5-6h travel, so when the bus came to its final stop after 3 h, I was thinking she surely had been wrong. But it wasnt yet lom sak, just a terminal to change bus for another 3h ride through flat land with mostly sugar cane & few banana/Coconut plants, and hillsides covered with dry/small trees. Arriving in lom sak it was yet another sleepy town on a sunday afternoon, so after a walk & some food - back to the bus, vip.
Getting into phitsanulok first thing to sort was accommodation, since only 2 places were close to the station called hostel. The town itself was quiet, the market on the riverbank reached by the karaoke/concerts from the river bars offering the usual fabrics and good food. A german couple was looking for am internet cafe we ended up chatting a bit. Outcome was I now knew how to get to sukhothai the next day another recommendation for chiang mai. leaving the luggage at the trainstation Finding the bus was easy as can be, similarly everything worked exceptionally well to get to the historical park of what remains from the first thai capital. Many brick ruins in a beautiful forrest environment surrounded by earthwalls; it doesnt stop there but continues beyond them, also information boards with drawings of what it might have looked like are everywhere on display. After 3hrs of cycling around these remains in the midday sun it was time to get back to new sukhothai back to phitsanulok in order to pick up luggage catch the night train. Before reaching the trainstation there was a nice buffet place next to topland plaza - works like a normal buffet, but the waiters will bring two buckets with burning coals to your table you do the bbq and cooking by your own. More out of curiosity I took a look at the ticket which I still believed was for sometime after eight, yet the train was in fact due in a few moments!...but in the end was around 40 minutes late.
arriving in chiang mai in the early morning hours there was an elderly lady at the trainstation. Speaking english very well, we had a chat in which she says at 84 she is still running her own palm oil farm (lets others harvest every 20-24 days) & has now come from southern thailand by train to visit her children. Once the luggage deposit had opened I set out to arrive at one of the main temples at sunrise. Many of the monks were passing the streets already, at the temples others started their daywork. As the sun rose the mountains in the background started to appear formed a nice scenery. To one of those I intended to go next & waiting for songtheaw (pick-up type of bus) passengers a Chinese woman said she had similar plans, so we joined. The drive on a windy road through the forresty area was beautiful only a few hundred steps to climb at the end to reach the temple. Inside were the usual mix of golden chedis, buddha statues, bells, candles & oil lamps, more buddhas, a great wood carved panel depicting important religious scenes, beautiful trees as well as mostly artificial flowers. Somewhere in between all the tourists every once in a while the orange robe of a monk appeared, as they are usually living very there. The view from the mountain was very foggy, thus fong I went to discover a path by the cemetry & on into the national park. Soon there were indications to a route passing several waterfalls haveing found a map we set off for it. The 2.5 km took roughly 3 hrs in the end, but were an amazing walk through the forrest (huge trees with aerial roots, bananas, bamboo > 10m,...). in the end we passed all 3 waterfalls enjoyed the little hike a lot. By chance there was a ride back into town. the local university campus is said to be very beautiful, but at the guarded entrance we let us get talked into the "only" way to see it, by a bus tour (campus actually is big) - in Chinese. In the evening bicycles were rented & with a group of more, fun chinese we set off for nightmarketS enjoyed another table bbq (hot pot). the following day I visited a few temples towncenter had planned to leave town. Over a delicious papaya salad at breakfast I learned the chinese new years was to happen the very same evening, so decided to stay for a day more. during the day another walk through town & in the evening through the Chinatown was up - somewhat unusual also for the chinese there were no fireworks at midnight, but to happen the night after... So on new years day I set off for laos, after a long busride (lush green hills shortly after chiang mai soon changed into farmland for rice, tobacco & sugar cane, occasional cow & goats) where everything worked really well, passed the border & had an enjoyable party with friendly as can be lao people & the other guests. Off to northern laos In an overcrowded minibus (huge areas of forrest cleared for kautschuk trees), now in muang sing, where people are yet to celebrate new years...tomorrow going on a camping hike for 2 days.
Mittwoch, 25. Februar 2015
Hows it going? its just a try on bringing the blog back in use, so dont be scared :p
on 11-02-15 the journey was continued, this time around to SEA(south east asia). not sure how it will keep up to the current events, but its worth giving it a try...
more or less out of interest in places I haven't been to & for the availability of time (& money) the flights got booked?...
bangkok is pretty big & fairly organized, as far as I can tell after such a short time. Public transport works very well from airport to town & within. maybe due to incompetence or rather ignorance I spend a lot of time getting to the stay for the first night, partially due to its location in a place a bit hidden in the backstreets...in general the orientation around town is a bit difficult due to most signs being written in thai (surprise), but also google is adapting to this habit...thanks to a flawless telecommunication providers service at the airport, tourists get equipped with sim cards right away, +668 7387 9302 being the new # for thailand.
in short, bangkok is a bit like india for the chaos on the roads, the apparent difference of lifestyle & culture (writing etc) as well as the olfactory impressions...
so long
edit: lao # 020 9510 8543